How this designer’s tootsie shaped boots sent social media into a fetish
This is A HOT MINUTE WITH, a quick-fire interview series championing all the rising talent catapulting into fashion, art and music’s fickle stratosphere. From pinch-me moments to bad dates and even worse chat-up lines, think of it as an overindulgent conversation – like the ones you have in sticky club toilets at 4.A.M. Except these guests don’t regret the overshare…
Courtesy of @beate.karlsson
NAME BEATE KARLSSON
LOCATION Florence, Italy
STAR SIGN Aries
LIFE MANTRA Make the effort to get to know yourself.
FAVOURITE FILM Battle Royale.
It’s safe to say the internet didn’t do us dirty with content this month. We saw the news of a summer solstice (meaning a shit tonne of hugging, maybe even licking), that awaits us from June 21st as we swivel a proud middle finger up to Coronageddon; we saw the next chapter of Megxit unfold; a casual pitstop to Mars; </3 Kimye </3; H&M gate; a tearful Britney documentary and a rogue DaftPunk split. And to think we’re only 15.07% into the year. But it was this month that the Florence-based clothing label, AVAVAV stomped across the internet and cut through the noise in multiples of five, with the brands iconic, monstrous foot-shaped boots.
Crafted from silicone and deadstock materials, the tootsie-shaped stiletto boots sent social media into a fetish, courtesy of the label’s newly appointed creative director, Beate Karlsson. “The disfiguring shapes are a disruption in our associations of the original source,” shares the designer, bringing bizarre to the banal. Discussing the new role, and life after creating the viral silicone shorts emulating the peachy cheeks of Kim K, the Swedish designer is committed to producing hyper-realistic pieces through sustainable methods. With itchy feet, Karlsson leads fashion’s next generation into a more sustainable future, in between working with Kerby Jean-Raymond for PYER MOSS. Name a better way than to put your best slimy-heeled foot forward and save the planet?
Scarlett Baker: How would you describe yourself in 3 words?
Beate Karlsson: Impatient, happy, workaholic.
SB: Tell us about your life and growing up in Sweden. What was your favourite thing about it?
BK: My childhood was great, but I think it’s because I tend to remember only the good stuff. One of the greatest, but also awful, things about Sweden and Stockholm is that you’re close to nature and there’s a huge climate contrast in the Swedish seasons. The winters are long, dark, and snowy so when the summer comes it feels like the whole country goes into a post-war energy. That energy is the most beautiful thing about Sweden. I think any artist or designer builds their visual library from what they encounter, in that sense I guess it’s reflected in my work.
SB: How would you describe your experience at PARSONS and your move from Sweden to New York?
BK: The move to NYC was quite unsentimental. I had heard many horror stories about the Parsons fashion programmes having an extreme workload and the nineteen-year-old me was very intimidated by this. My only aim was to survive the first semester. As soon as I got control over school, that turned out not to be so bad. I started to love the energy of the city. NYC was like ‘Neverland’, I didn’t have any family or friends there so I chose my own context which was really liberating.
SB: The best place in New York is…
BK: Cantina Royal, Fig 19, KGB Bar, Peacefood, Public Record…
SB: Were you always set on pursuing fashion when you were younger? How would you say you got your creative footing if you’ll pardon the pun?
BK: No, I wanted to either be a singer and write music or do something within visual arts. I decided to pursue fashion design when I was 16-ish. I think I’ve been in a sort of merry-go-round of trial and error for the past eight to nine years. I’ve gone into different phases where every segment has given me a clue of what I like and dislike and has led me to discover the likes in the “upcoming” phase. Today I’m at a point where I’ve doubted the fashion industry many times over and I’ve ended up in a place where I feel I’m more truthful to the process, where I only explore the things that I’m interested in.
SB: How did your new appointment at AVAVAV come about? What was it that drew you to the brand?
BK: I got a call in September from Linda Friberg, founder of MONKI, WEEKDAY and CHEAP MONDAY. They asked me if I wanted to take over the creative direction of their new Italian based clothing label. I was intrigued and charmed by the invite, partly because of their sustainable production chain but also because they promised I’d have creative freedom. One week later I moved to Florence.
SB: How has life changed for you since your Kim K butt shorts?
BK: Haha! It has only gotten better. I learned a lot from this project and I also got two of my best friends IDA JONSSON and SIMON SAARINEN who were my collaborators for the Kim K butt.
SB: Creatively, how do you manage both your time and alternating visions between Pyer Moss and AVAVAV?
BK: I work a lot and I’m not always great at balancing work with life, but I try to integrate other things that ‘disturb’ my work bubble. For example I just got a cat, Larry, who’s been a fun disruption from work.
SB: What does your creative process look like from ideation to final product?
BK: I think the most important stage is when I get the idea for a shape of a piece, because it’s that curiosity and excitement that will motivate the whole process of actually making it. I usually start thinking in bed at night, then I sketch out the idea and if it's worth exploring further I usually mold a prototype in clay.
SB: What’s the reception been like to the new collection?
BK: It’s been great, we’ve gotten loads of unexpected requests for shoes. I’m excited to make the next collection more extra. I feel like we held back a bit for the clothing.
SB: What is one of the biggest obstacles facing the industry right now with regards to sustainability?
BK: I think the biggest obstacle is that we still don’t care enough about brands not taking any sustainable responsibility. I think we will start to see real change when people start boycotting brands that don’t do this. With this being said, this choice is often a privilege. So we are, in many ways, victims of the nature of the industry. It’s slow moving, but we’re heading in the right direction.
SB: AVAVAV caters to an evolving landscape in fashion, but what do you want to see happen this year?
BK: Through our collections I hope to be part of the ‘resistance’ and inspire others to join. Big parts of our process, being seasonless, only using deadstock and small quantities, isn’t adapted to the contemporary norms of the industry. Therefore I hope that like-minded brands can come together and support one another so that we can foster real change.
SB: The monster boots foster a fantasy-like quality to them, but what would your fantasy world look like?
BK: Hmm, it would probably be a hybrid of Barbapapa and Star Wars.
SB: When you’re not designing, what can we find you doing?
BK: Hanging out with friends, family and my cat!
SB: If you could take a trip to space with any 3 people dead or alive, who would it be and why?
BK: Fran Lebowitz, Jesus and my boyfriend would be fun.
SB: What sparked your exploration into feet and claws?
BK: As a designer I always try to redefine my personal preconceptions of clothing, accessories and products. I think when we encounter something abnormal we move further away from narrow mindedness, sort of like the nature of surprise. I think you can reach interesting silhouettes by disfiguring anatomical forms. I often end up with a hand shape for a shoe or a boob shaped bag and so on.
SB: What’s the biggest risk you’ve ever taken?
BK: Maybe our next collection, cause it includes fabric that could have us sued.
SB: If you could be anywhere in the world right now, where would you be?
BK: Morocco.
SB: Someone that’s inspired you this year?
BK: TIERRA WHACK.
SB: One song I have on repeat at the moment is...
BK: Opium Dreams by Yung Lean.
SB: What’s the last thing you think of when you go to bed?
BK: Work.
SB: And the first thing when you wake up?
BK: Work.
SB: When the pandemic ends, what’s the first thing you’re going to do
BK: Parteyyyyyy.