Class of 2021: How Kadeem Lamorell used knitwear to better understand his relationship to gender
This is A HOT MINUTE WITH, a quick-fire interview series championing all the rising talent catapulting into fashion, art and music’s fickle stratosphere. From pinch-me moments to bad dates and even worse chat-up lines, think of it as an overindulgent conversation – like the ones you have in sticky club toilets at 4.A.M. Except these guests don’t regret the overshare…
Inspired by the masculine figures in his life, Kadeem Lamorell is the Parsons graduate using knitwear to understand “why masculinity is such a deeply held and important concept” in the African-American and Caribbean communities he grew up in.
Filter by EMILY JANE SCOTT x CHECK-OUT
NAME KADEEM LAMORELL
AGE 21
LOCATION Brooklyn, New York, United States
COURSE BFA Fashion Design
UNIVERSITY Parsons School of Design
STAR SIGN Virgo
DESCRIBE YOUR DEGREE IN THREE WORDS Intense, Exciting, Illuminating.
Jeffrey Thomson: Hey Kadeem. Tell us about your final collection. What was the inspiration behind it?
Kadeem Lamorell: My final collection explored my relationship to gender, specifically to masculinity. It examined the ways my gender expression has been informed and restricted through my upbringing in African-American and Caribbean communities in Brooklyn. It was really inspired by the male-identifying figures in my life and a desire to understand why masculinity is such a deeply held and important concept to them. Furthermore, my exploration of hip-hop culture and the Caribbean diaspora had a heavy hand in inspiring this collection.
JT: How did you find studying at PARSONS? What was the experience like - was it what you expected or completely different?
KL: Studying at Parsons was a very fun but really intense experience. When you go there, you’re taken out of your little design bubble. You realise you’re surrounded by so many other talented designers and it can be both empowering and intimidating at the same time. There’s definitely an air of competition, but it’s up to you whether you want to contribute to that or not. It was for sure expected after coming in with the knowledge of how cutthroat and fickle the fashion industry can be.
JT: Did you always know you wanted to study here? What was your journey to Parsons like?
KL: I didn’t always want to go to Parsons. In fact, I didn’t seriously consider going there until the end of my junior year in high school. I was super adamant about going to FIT because it was the school that all my favourite designers went to. I always thought of Parsons as the “Project Runway School” (I hated that show). But, in my sophomore year of high school, I got into a pre-college art/design program called the Parsons Scholars Program and that completely revamped my perspective. They really built a foundation for me to get into Art & Design and being in the environment already, why not go to Parsons?
JT: When looking back on your first project and now to your final collection, what springs to mind?
KL: I feel like there’s more of a rawness to the work I create now. In my first projects, I was super concerned with making sure everything was clean and refined which isn’t a problem. But, I felt it was missing parts of me that I wasn’t able to unlock yet. I also feel that I’ve found my true interests now compared to before. I really fell in love with knitwear and that really started to propel my current aesthetic.
JT: What’s the biggest misconception about studying fashion?
KL: A lot of people still believe that fashion is just this ultra-glamorous and easy lane of study. There’s so much work that goes into the clothing that goes on our backs. Sketching, technical packs, patternmaking, sewing, samples, materiality, there’s so many aspects of the design process you have to learn when studying fashion. It can be overwhelming to handle the process all by yourself while in school.
JT: If you could go back, would you have done anything different?
KL: I don’t think I would’ve done anything differently. I feel I went through school just being who I am, and doing what I wanted to do. I learned a lot about people and myself. I made a lot of friends and connections. I’m really happy about the trajectory going to design school put me in and I’m excited for the future.
JT: What advice would you give to those thinking about studying fashion? Is a formal fashion education for everyone?
KL: Studying fashion at an institution definitely has its positives. However, a formal fashion education isn’t necessarily for everyone. Not everyone can afford it or even thrive in that environment. The most important thing is having the dedication to your craft. Fashion is one of those things where you can improve on your own time.
JT: What’s your biggest fashion faux pas?
KL: I feel like the only fashion faux pas to me is cultural appropriation. I see a lot of people adopting aesthetics, symbolism and stylistic choices from other cultures with carelessness. I don’t think it’s cool, especially if someone from said culture is saying it’s disrespectful.
JT: The best thing about studying in New York?
KL: The access to literally anything and everything. There’s so many people and cultures concentrated in just this one place. You can find inspiration anywhere.
JT: And the worst?
KL: Getting around. The MTA is actually the worst but the only transportation we can rely on. Honestly, get a bike. It’ll save you so much stress.
JT: When you’re rushing towards a deadline, what keeps you going?
KL: Knowing that the work I’m creating is important and worthwhile to myself before anyone else.
JT: How are you celebrating post-graduation life?
KL: I’ve just been enjoying my friendships so much more without the stress of my thesis.
JT: What’s next for Kadeem?
KL: I eventually want to start my own knitwear business creating custom sweaters and accessories for people. I also want to dabble in my interests outside of fashion like music production, DJ’ing… and seeing where that takes me.
JT: And lastly, what does fashion mean to you?
KL: Fashion is an expression of self identity now more than ever. I feel like we’ve come to a time where everything has been done and trends are just recycling. You can channel any aesthetic you want.
See more from Check-Out’s Class of 2021 here.