Here’s why knitwear designer Juha VehmaanperA is the craftiest bitch in town
This is A HOT MINUTE WITH, a quick-fire interview series championing all the rising talent catapulting into fashion, art and music’s fickle stratosphere. From pinch-me moments to bad dates and even worse chat-up lines, think of it as an overindulgent conversation – like the ones you have in sticky club toilets at 4.A.M. Except these guests don’t regret the overshare…
After graduating Aalto University, knit designer Juha Vehmaanperä began to unfurl masculine notions through texture; using soft yarns to shatter burly stereotypes in menswear – proving that outward gender does not always define the inner self.
Courtesy of @ juhavehmaanpera
NAME JUHA VEHMAANPERÄ
AGE 27
LOCATION Helsinki, Finland
STAR SIGN Sagittarius
LIFE MANTRA I’ll just finish this row of stitches before I go.
Alice May Stenson: Do you remember your first fashion memory? What was it?
Juha Vehmaanperä: I’m not sure if I can recall a first memory but I remember that my grandma used to make myself and my siblings’ clothes that no one else had. Especially knitted clothing, and I was always fond of the idea that a ball of yarn can be turned into an entire garment that one can wear.
AMS: Yarn is both soft to touch, and soft in appearance. How do you use this to challenge masculinity in your creations?
JV: I just want to be free of the burden of masculinity! In the past I always had to play roles according to it, when it doesn’t fit me personally, at all.
AMS: What’s one thing from childhood that you miss the most?
JV: My catwoman costume and all the free time to create and play.
AMS: When did you decide on being a fashion designer? Why did you choose knitwear as your specialism?
JV: I think I decided on it at an early age, I always drew clothing and stuff like that but I didn't really know it was called fashion back then. Maybe it was America's Next Top Model that introduced me to the world of fashion and I just felt as though it fit me because it offered an escape from the dullness of everyday life. I had to go through graphic design school first before I realised what had been my passion all along.
“I just want to be free of the burden of masculinity. In the past I always had to play roles according to it.”
I think knitwear chose me! I was very into it but it wasn't really taught that much to boys. However, I used to crochet these long, long chains just for fun when I was younger. In university I started focusing more on knitwear as I thought it was an interesting way to both create shape and structure at the same time. I love all the endless possibilities of it! Especially hand knitting.
AMS: Can you describe your brand in three words?
JV: Crafty, outrageous and colourful!
AMS: How do you decide upon the colour palette and knit techniques to use?
JV: I tend to start with the attitude of wanting to do something subtler this time and ending up with all the colours of the rainbow. I love bright and vibrant colours, they give me energy when I am working and I would never miss on using pink... a lot of it. When it comes to knit techniques, I like to vary a lot between very technical and structured into something very loose and freehand – to the point where I sometimes mix both of them in one garment. To me it’s also very important when I am working to constantly try new techniques and create a large swatch library for future reference.
AMS: Where do you look for ideas?
JV: Usually the best ideas are found by accident. I just love browsing YouTube looking at videos and ending up finding someone or something that I find really interesting. I also like going to second hand shops and finding someone's really odd craft projects, crochet pillows or hand knitted things that have an interesting structure or an idea that sparks a new idea in my head.
AMS: And who would you most like to see wearing your designs?
JV: Someone who appreciates the work that is put into them and treats them with care!
AMS: Why does your work seem to juxtapose art class aesthetics with athleticism?
JV: That is a very good question! Coming from a city where hockey and football were the big things, I always felt that for boys – that is the category that I was put into – athleticism came with this overpowering need to be super masculine. For me it was very off-putting and it has taken me a long time to realise that I can enjoy things that are considered masculine on my own terms. All these distinctions are made up anyways. So the athleticism juxtaposition has something to do with claiming space for different expressions also.
“I believe that our favourite garments have stories and it is a great narrative when someone has handmade a garment rather than it just coming out of a machine.”
AMS: Gender expression is changing in society. How can the fashion industry better respond to such changes?
JV: By hiring more people who actually challenge these gender norms in their everyday life, trusting their vision and giving them the platform.
AMS: When you’re not designing clothes, what can you be found doing?
JV: Lately I have been very much into camping, I call it glamping because I think that sounds more fabulous. I just really enjoy the quietness and peace of nature these days – and I love a good swim during the summer!
AMS: What’s something you want everyone to know about you?
JV: That I love the colour pink and always carry my knitting equipment with me.
AMS: What do you keep in your crocheted handbags?
JV: Always: my yarns, hooks and needles! In the summer, my towel and swimwear, then in the winter it’s naturally a pair of mittens.
AMS: Why is it significant for young designers to keep handcraft alive? Do you think technology is putting tradition at risk?
JV: I think it is important to keep handcraft alive because it connects people and creates wellbeing. Technology has made it easier to start making handcrafts. Now you have a teacher on YouTube available 24/7, whenever you wish to tune in. In terms of the fashion industry, I think the use of technology has highlighted the importance of slow processes in production. I believe that our favourite garments have stories and it is a great narrative when someone has handmade a garment rather than it just coming out of a machine.
AMS: If you could wake up with a new talent, what would you choose?
JV: The first thing that came to my mind is that I would love to be able to sing better because I always wanted to be a popstar that could hit ALL the high notes.
AMS: Do you have any regrets?
JV: That I didn't start knitting at a younger age!
AMS: What would you like to be remembered for?
JV: For being the Craftiest Bitch in Town.
AMS: Tell us, what’s the secret to being the Craftiest Bitch in Town?
JV: Coming from a fairly small city in Finland, seeing craftiness as something adorable and being a fierce, unapologetic diva!