How 18-year-old model and activist TJ Sawyerr is redefining teenage dreams
Welcome to CHEW THE FAT WITH…, our long-form profile series where we invite you to sit down with fashion’s next generation as they dig deep into their memories. To chew some fat - defined as an informal conversation brimming with small talk - we encourage you to pull up a chair and take a big old bite as we spill the tea on the life and work of the industry’s need-to-knows. Just remember to mop up after yourself.
We’ve all had teenage dreams, not the Katy Perry cotton candy kind, but the insatiable, burning kind of your adolescent self. The kind of dreams that feel distant, but somehow always reachable, igniting the hunger in your stomach and the 🔥flames🔥 in your eyes. But why did we preface them as ‘teenage’ in the first place, making them feel like unattainable and farfetched thoughts of our imagination? Why are they not just simply dreams?
“Society deems us not to be ready to tackle real life until we’re 18,” declares model, creative director, activist, writer and sixth-former TJ SAWYERR. But what is age, than just a marker of time? For the Clapham-based teen, championing the underestimated youth is at the forefront of his work both in front of and behind the camera. With a torn ACL at age 14 cutting short his footballing pipedream, Sawyerr took to exploring skateboarding’s lifestyle scene, queuing - or rather limping - in crutches to the coveted doors of Supreme in Soho, and two years later found himself on a different side of the pitch landing his first Nike campaign on Oxford Street.
Between the balancing act of studying for his International Baccalaureate exams and running to the studio to shoot on his lunch breaks, Sawyerr is not only challenging the attitudes toward a misconstrued youth, but using his position within the fashion industry to fight societal attitudes from racial prejudice to the flawed rehabilitation system in the UK. “I’ve got a pretty exotic heritage, being Ghanaian, American, Trinidadian and Jamaican, so as a young and proud Black man, I feel a strong inclination to speak out on what I believe and oppose a lot of societal prejudice and misconception. I’ve always been an outspoken and controversial kid, and while I was often made to believe that this was a problem through my time at school, I’ve learnt that the desire to question and fight against dysfunctional convention is one of the most powerful and important drives that one can possess and I feel blessed for it.” Being you is not just about handing in your homework on time, but questioning the very rulebook that’s telling you so.
Scarlett Baker: Firstly, how are you?
TJ Sawyerr: I’ve gotta say, I’m feeling great right now! Work is going really well and, with Boris’ recent announcement, it’s probably the first time during this pandemic that I’ve had any level of confidence in the government’s capability of dealing with this virus, but maybe I’m speaking too soon.
SB: What’s the most exciting thing you’ve done today?
TS: Had a cool day at work shooting a major campaign for a nice cheque.
SB: You’ve previously said you don’t like to limit yourself to one practice, so as a model, writer, photographer and creative director, what does the word creative mean to you?
TS: It’s funny because while I don’t like to restrict myself to any single category, I also tend to steer away from the term creative because of its broadness and lack of specificity. For me, everyone is creative regardless of their field of work and I, personally, strive to be more than just that. The word is pretty meaningless to me to be honest, and how I classify myself is not something I’m too worried about. I can’t be placed into any old group or category and that, for me, is what is so exciting!
SB: Talk us through your average day.
TS: I’m currently in my final year of high school (Sixth Form), studying a pretty rigorous six-subject IB course, so weirdly enough, for me this pandemic has actually provided me with more opportunity to work on non-academic pursuits than beforehand. I’m able to go and shoot during lunch times or free periods and hit the studio straight after school too. It makes for a pretty tasking work day as I prepare for my final exams, but my creative work actually acts as a great release for me, the same as playing video games or going on a walk may be for others.
SB: Tell us about your scouting process as a model and how you got your creative footing in the fashion industry. Was it something you always saw yourself doing when you were younger?
TS: My original interests rested far from the world of fashion, I’ve gotta say. I was a keen footballer playing for Fulham Academy in my early teens. It was actually the knee injury that swiftly ended my career on the pitch at age 14. That pushed me towards fashion, as I was overcome by boredom following my ACL surgery. I decided to start exploring the world of Supreme, queueing up every week, on crutches to begin with, hoping to make some quick cash. It was at one of these drops that I was first approached by a casting agent, for a street cast MARTINE ROSE campaign back in 2017, and that really ignited a passion within me. At the time, I had a gap-tooth and monobrow and hadn’t achieved any great successes with the ladies. I’d be lying if I said I thought my looks would set the foundation for my future, but the faith that the scout put in me that day certainly gave me the confidence that I could reap successes in this game.
SB: You’ve modelled for designers including the likes of CHARLES JEFFREY and LIAM HODGES, but what goes through your mind when you’re walking down the catwalk?
TS: I’ll be real with you, I can hardly remember! Out of all the work that I have done, runway stands alone in terms of the energy, collaborative effort and intensity of the entire process, as I’m sure most models will agree. Everything from the casting process in the week preceding, where we are sent on a tour of London to meet dozens of designers who, more often than not, have absolutely no interest in booking us. The show day, where in the 3 hours leading up to the show, we grow so close to everybody on the team and experience the mad rush of preparation and anticipation in an atmosphere like no other. Then finally the afterparty, where drinks are in abundance and a star-studded guest list is simply regulation. Everything about the runway experience is special, it has brought about some of the highlights of my career and it’s undoubtedly something that I look forward to partaking in again (p.s. casting directors, this is your cue to book my ass!).
SB: You launched your first solo project, ECSTASY, last year documenting the realities of London’s youth culture. How has life been since then and what have you been working on?
TS: The response to ECSTASY was unexpected. It was the first time that I really delved into direction and on a topic that means a lot to me. It’s funny because looking back on it, I don’t feel as if it’s anywhere near my best work, and despite the big press response to the project at the time, I think my growth in the 9 months since in terms of skills and know-how has been so significant, that what I am working on now is 10 times better. As far as what I’m working on now? You’re gonna have to wait and see!
Credit: @vickygrout
SB: What do you think is one of the biggest problems facing the younger generation today, both inside and outside of the fashion industry? Do you think there’s a feeling of apathy towards young adults?
TS: The biggest problem for me is that the youth are so greatly underestimated by society, to the point where we have lowered our own standards to suit this. In other words, because of the linear and intensive education system that we are all compulsorily pushed through, there are little to no means for a young person to discover the real world that lies beyond our academic life. It’s as if society deems us not to be ready to tackle real life until we’re 18. So many young people restrict themselves and lower their personal expectations, beginning to be satisfied with doing the bare minimum, playing video games or using their phones in their spare time. This to me is so sad because youth is power, and there are so many opportunities for individuals, regardless of age, to prosper in creative fields and elsewhere while gaining important life experience. Instead many young people think that it’s okay to do nothing because nothing is expected of them, aside from handing in their homework on time.
SB: What prompted you to delve into fashion to challenge problems facing youth culture and drawing people’s attention to the UK prison system and its faults?
TS: I embrace my roots, and in doing so I am aware that, in other circumstances, I could very easily have found myself in a marginalised situation. As a Black man in this country, any small offence can land you in jail, and with the dysfunctional nature of our rehabilitation system being an afterthought in government, convicts who are attempting to reform their lives are effectively hung out to dry. That is what has inspired my extensive work with ex-offenders, as the workshops I put on aim to provide these men with not only the skills and know-how, but also the confidence to step into creative industries. All these guys need is somebody to take a chance on them, and I will continue to be that person to the best of my capability.
SB: What changes do you hope to see in the fashion industry over the next year?
SB: I would like to see the industry become a little less materialistic and more so centred upon talent and resourcefulness rather than money. It’s all well and good celebrating those at the top of the industry who have all the funds in the world to do whatever they please, but up-and-coming artists and designers with less financial means, but a great vision, passion and skill ought to be supported more.
SB: In the age of Instagram, how do you think the role of models are changing?
TS: Models are finding themselves in greater positions of influence, so I think they have a massive role to play, more so than I think they would like to believe. Unfortunately, despite having large platforms, you won’t see many model-influencers of today advocating for anything more than crippling narcissism and unsustainable fashion. Part of this is because the most self-centred individuals, for some reason, seem to gain the most interest and support in this industry. This is the sad reality of social media. Those who are willing to speak out are avoided by major brands who fear for their own illicit or untoward activities being publicised.
SB: How have the events of the last year changed your outlook on the world around you?
TS: The last year has changed everything for me. I’ve been venturing into direction, working at The Basement and really pushing my craft in a way that I never have before. The explosion of BLM support in the aftermath of the brutal murder of George Floyd in Minneapolis in May really ignited a flame within me, a real deep desire to make a difference with my work and as an activist. I had never experienced such an alarming realisation as I did when I saw that video and the reaction in the aftermath. It really pushed me to do my part for the community and for my fellow Black folks.
Credit: @vickygrout
SB: How would you describe Clapham to someone who hasn’t visited before?
TS: Gentrified as fuck.
SB: What’s been your biggest pinch me moment so far?
TS: Probably seeing my first Nike campaign on Oxford Street when I was 16.
SB: What would you say is the biggest misconception about Gen Z today?
TS: That Gen Z is misconceived.
SB: What’s your favourite word at the moment?
TS: Covidiot.
SB: Can you remember the first item of clothing that was special to you?
TS: My first pair of Air Max’s. It was a a pair of Sunset TNs that my mum bought me years ago.
SB: What's your favourite thing about Clapham?
TS: Clapham Junction, the means by which I can get the fuck outta here!
SB: Do you think you’ll always live in London?
TS: Not if I can avoid it! Don’t get me wrong, I absolutely love my city and I’d like to live here certainly for the next few years, but my fate lies in the Caribbean. I plan to get my money up, and just disappear one day back home to Jamaica, leaving my mark on the world before stepping aside and letting the new-gen take over.
SB: How would you describe your relationship with Instagram?
TS: If it wasn’t for work purposes, I would delete it in an instant. Social media has created a world that I greatly resent being a part of. A world where now, young people are genuinely more concerned with appearing to be successful than actually being successful. The ability to do absolutely nothing with your life, but nonetheless gain esteem and material ratings from contemporaries over Instagram and other platforms, to me, is just so whack.
SB: What did you have for breakfast?
TS: Some leftover jerk wings with rice and peas from last night lol.
SB: If you could work with anyone in the fashion industry, who would it be and why?
TS: Probably A$AP ROCKY. I’ve met him on a couple of occasions and he’s just the guy! I know we’d vibe differently on set.
SB: Who are you listening to on repeat at the moment?
TS: Been listening to a lot of 5EB, he’s next up. I’ve had his new ting Lovely with the bro Fimi on repeat the last couple days.
SB: A book everyone should read is…
TS: Race Matters by Cornel West.
SB: If you could eat one thing for the rest of your life, what would it be and why?
TS: My go-to plate is a lil Afro-Carib fusion: Curry chicken with jollof and plantain. Little piece of my heritage right there.
SB: The first thing I’m going to do on June 21st is...
TS: Leave the house and not return until July!
SB: When I'm 19, I want to be...
TS: Me. I know the next year is going to be a wild one for me in many ways, and amidst that upwards progression, I think it’s often easy to focus too much on what you could be, and lose sight of who you are. I just wanna be TJ.
SB: Your Insta bio reads: "still figuring it out.." So what’s next?
TS: I’m young, I’m fresh, I’m learning. I think a lot of people forget that I’m only 18, and that by normal societal standards, my only concerns should be winning games on FIFA and finding where the next party is at. I still have a long way to go, and right now I’m figuring out where that journey may lead me, but just because I’m still processing doesn’t mean that I’m not a force to be reckoned with. Soon enough people will know what I’m on :)