Fashion East is the talent agency that made a big ol’ splash with five collections from Chet Lo, Maxmillian, Jawara Alleyne, Goom Heo and HRH – traversing spiked swimwear and slick heritage celebrations.

For emerging designer Goom Heo, it all started with grannies and grandpas. The South Korean-born Central Saint Martins graduate is in her final tenure at Fashion East and talks to Alice May Stenson about all things memes, internet trolls and futuristic fashion following her horror-fuelled AW21 collection.

After creating his eponymous label Parnell Mooney in 2015 and a breakout stint at Fashion East, the Irish-born designer found himself at a crossroads. “I don't think I ever really took time and thought…what do I actually like? What am I into?” explains Parnell-Mooney. Now the designer has shaken off the shackles of the industry and is imagining a future where making clothes he wants to wear is simply enough.