Fashion designer Kuan-Chien Chiang wants to talk about arseholes
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The Taiwanese fashion designer is coming out of the closet with a new bootylicious collection that celebrates gay sex in all its glory.
“My collection is about arseholes,” says menswear designer KUAN-CHIEN CHIANG. Taking me through his untitled two-look collection which is brimming with bright pink arsehole-like shapes (there’s really no other way to put it), I see snippets of fluorescent orange fur affixed to giant balloon-like garments that call to be touched, stroked, and even played with. Chiang puts his arms into the ruched-edged cavities that puncture the clothing, as if performing a bizarrely sexual fashion colonoscopy.
He blushes when I compliment his outfit. The 25-year-old designer wears a canary yellow vest over a white t-shirt and a staple y2k VIVIENNE WESTWOOD pearl necklace. He touches the clips in his hair, flashing some chipped electric blue nail polish. “In Taiwan I wouldn’t dress like this,” he laughs. “I would be worried about receiving negative comments. In London you have more freedom to show who you really are – I am braver with my style in London than in Taiwan.”
Chiang was born into a conservative family in Taiwan. Before moving to London to pursue a Graduate Diploma in Fashion Design at London’s CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS, Chiang completed a BA degree in Fashion Design at Shih-Chien University in Taiwan. Although he and his older sister identify themselves as part of the LGBTQ+ community, queerness was never openly discussed in his household. “In my family, our gender identities were always a secret. My parents want me to marry a woman as they think that being gay is not normal. I haven’t come out of the closet until now.”
Credit: @elisajuesten
Well, Chiang came out of that closet with a bang. “Having sex with men is fascinating. It makes me so relaxed and happy,” he says. The designer’s exploration of his own gay identity is central to the new collection. Still in many cultures, gay sex is taboo or even illegal. In school, Chiang was verbally bullied for his appearance and sexuality: “I want to fight homophobia. For this collection, I wanted to discuss how being gay is not wrong and should be normalised within society. I was so afraid of speaking out about the fact I’m gay and realised that this in itself was internalised homophobia.
Through his anus-inspired collection, Chiang dramatically sheds the constraints of his traditional upbringing. He constructs his arseholes using an eclectic array of materials including leather, mesh and thick jersey which are manipulated into rounded structures. Like his concept, Chiang’s colour palette is adventurous. Hot pinks, pale pinks, apple green and oyster clash brilliantly. For one of the looks, large holes representing bodily orifices belonging to the nether regions are placed on the head, shoulder, back and front of the garment – like gleaming oversized barnacles.
It’s hard not to giggle when Chiang talks about bottoms in such a nonchalant tone. Thankfully, the designer appreciates the comical aspect of his unforgettable work – so the laughs don’t have to be immediately swallowed. “Everyone laughs when I say I’m doing an arsehole project. I think it’s a ridiculous theme, but it uses humour to convey an important message about gay sex and the lived experiences of gay people. The collection is a platform to discuss what is happening in the gay community. When people see this collection, they remember it,” Chiang says.
The young designer’s experience in London is like that of a kid who has been let loose in a sweet shop. London is often regarded as one of the most liberal European cities in terms of fashion, a notion Chiang has taken full advantage of. He’s been dating regularly, experimenting with his personal style and feels more confident in himself than ever before. This newfound courage is a feeling he wants to share with his audience. The collection is tailored towards gay men, but specifically gay Asian men who want to express their queer identity through clothing. As Chiang suggests, in London there are no limits.
Credit: @elisajuesten
What does Chiang have planned for the future? He has applied to several schools in London and Paris in the hopes of studying a Masters degree in Fashion Design. Afterwards, he wants to continue his career in Europe. Of course, the biggest hurdle Chiang is yet to face is closer to home and a fear well known within the LGBTQ+ community – coming out to his family. Will he ever show his parents his final collection? “Oh, I don’t know! Sometimes, I think, ‘should I tell my parents now? Or in ten years’ time?’ It’s a really serious topic to say you’re gay even in today’s climate. I still feel conflicted about it in my heart. I cannot imagine how my parents would react if I told them I’m doing a collection about arseholes.”
Once the chuckles, snorts and gasps have faded away, the powerful message of Chiang’s collection shines through. The collection advocates a more open conversation about gay sex across all cultures and is a vibrant celebration of acceptance, liberty and love. Before returning to tend to his arseholes, Chiang offers one last piece of advice to those struggling with their sexuality. “Be happy with who you are and know yourself. In one’s lifetime, it’s important to find your true identity and embrace it.”