How Mata Hari is to this CSM student, an inspirational ‘embodiment of power in female disguise’

This is A HOT MINUTE WITH, a quick-fire interview series championing all the rising talent catapulting into fashion, art and music’s fickle stratosphere. From pinch-me moments to bad dates and even worse chat-up lines, think of it as an overindulgent conversation – like the ones you have in sticky club toilets at 4.A.M. Except these guests don’t regret the overshare…

 
Courtesy of @saraanyaaaa

Courtesy of @saraanyaaaa

 

NAME SARANYA UMASHANKAR
AGE 20
LOCATION Epsom, Surrey.
STAR SIGN Virgo, baby!

Phoebe Shardlow: When did you initially start designing garments?

Saranya Umanshankar: This is a tricky question, because from a young age I loved drawing and illustrating. I actually bought garment stencils from my tuk shop in primary school when I was like nine or ten. I think this was the turning point when I started thinking about shapes, patterns and colours in garments. As I matured and developed a stronger sense of taste and style, I properly began to design looks and lineups beyond the realms of a garment in my foundation year. This year was the turning point for me, in terms of understanding parts of myself. 

PS: Where’s your favourite place to create?

SU: My home, for sure. I have everything I need at home; my Mum, food, a table and big windows. So I’m quite well settled in. 

PS: Describe your design style in three words… 

SU: Joyful, elaborate and dreamlike. 

PS: A lot of the inspiration behind your work is your mother, how important is family to you? 

SU: It was only once I had started at CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS was I given the opportunity to truly reflect on my creative choices and thus come to the realisation that so much of my work has these heavy influences from my family. These unintentional associations and connections I make throughout most of my projects, have shown me how my culture, upbringing and family shape so much of my everyday life.

PS: What makes you feel inspired?

SU: Random stuff. But at the moment Art Deco, a shit ton of Art Deco. You can’t go wrong!

PS: Something you’re proud of?

SU: My progress to be honest. I didn’t expect to do so much of what I wanted and I feel it has given me ignition and a greater ambition to do absolutely anything. 

PS: Can you tell us more about Mata Hari, another inspiration of yours?

SU: Mata Hari, in my opinion, is the embodiment of power in female disguise. She is other worldly and her life is something that both excites and scares me. I grew fond of her as I felt she shared many similarities, in terms of her dance career, with my mother. I think the difference being she totally made herself exempt from any guidelines or rules for her and I love this. She was also a spy which is fucking amazing! 

PS: Who would you love to see wearing your designs?

SU: Sarah Gresty. 

PS: Where do you hope to be in five years time?

SU: Living my best life.

PS: What would you like to change about the fashion industry?

SU: The unnecessary pressure. I think there is room for all of us to do well if we’re optimistic enough.

 
 

Saranya Umashankar is currently a first-year Womenswear student at Central Saint Martins. You can see more of her fabulous portfolio here.

 
 

Phoebe Shardlow

Phoebe Shardlow (23) is the Culture Editor of Check-Out, East London-residing, Prada heels clacking, fashion journo grad from CSM. Her graduating beauty magazine, Slap!, was a vivacious story of selfies, hot boys, gamy teeth and Kylie Minogue. She’s previously written for publications including Elle and CR Fashion Book. Her plans for 2021? To become the perfect amalgamation of Larry David and Maura Higgins from Love Island. 

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