Meet Joost Jansen, the designer pleading for more transparency and self-belief
This is A HOT MINUTE WITH, a quick-fire interview series championing all the rising talent catapulting into fashion, art and music’s fickle stratosphere. From pinch-me moments to bad dates and even worse chat-up lines, think of it as an overindulgent conversation – like the ones you have in sticky club toilets at 4.A.M. Except these guests don’t regret the overshare…
NAME JOOST JANSEN, SURVIVAL OF THE FASHIONEST
AGE 35
LOCATION Eindhoven, the Netherlands (with a studio in Copenhagen).
LIFE MANTRA Love is a religion.
“In the beginning of my career I learnt about the good sides of fashion, how to be creative and how important that is,” says Joost Jansen, the creative director of Survival of the Fashionest. “Later, I was taught more about the science of fashion which I didn’t like at all. It’s all about quantities and not about quality.” So, Jansen decided to start his own brand which focussed on low quantities and high quality: the hand-knitted brand he founded creates sweaters made from natural materials and take at least three weeks to be created - designed stitch by stitch.
Jansen fulfilled his dream five years ago when he got the opportunity to “adopt 250 knitting grandmothers in Bulgaria.” And of course, when there are various knitters, there’s variety in the designs as well. Every piece and stitch is unique, complementing the bright, vibrant and energetic styles of his designs. Colours are what fascinate Jansen the most: “I’m trained as a trend designer, but I don’t care about seasonal trend colours or patterns. For me it’s more about finding the freshest, not the newest colour combination.”
But there’s much more to say about the speciality of his brand, he offers a virtual try-on through his website - including different skin tones; the items come in keep-forever boxes to store your favourite belongings; and the sweaters have knitted inside labels. The designer even made a collection in miniature (1/6 to the original size) to send them out to clients during the pandemic.
Elisa Juesten: What was the first item you designed?
Joost Jansen: That was actually this one that I'm wearing right now. It’s called Rosalinde after my friend from Antwerp, we used to work together for many years. I liked to play with different colours and geometric shapes that then became this sort of face.
EJ: Describe your creative process in three words.
JJ: Heritage, respect, creativity and if there would be a fourth one, I’d say colours.
EJ: Is there a message you want to spread with your brand?
JJ: Well, every collection has its own little story, but the general story that always comes back is that it's more about transparency. So if you talk about sustainability, the most important thing to me is not the sustainability itself, because I think every brand, and every company and every factory should be aware of sustainability. It's more about the transparency that I would like to show people like “hey, you know, this is why I make a certain decision. This is why we use this yarn, because it comes from this beautiful factory that is at this specific place.” The question of why I make certain decisions is what I want to explain to people.
EJ: What has been your biggest achievement so far?
JJ: One of the biggest highlights was the fashion show in Paris last year, because I could have all my clients there and present it to them.
EJ: Where do you see your designs going next?
JJ: We’re going to start with a new collection in May. It’s going to be a lot about techniques and textures, but the full idea is not there yet.
EJ: How would you describe your personal style?
JJ: Colourful and traditional.
EJ: What was the worst fashion trend you’ve taken part in?
JJ: Well that’s easy, back in the days I was part of the cybergoth subculture. I had very long hair once and was wearing this typical ponytail, it was ridiculous.
EJ: What is your favourite city? And which city do you want to visit next after lockdown?
JJ: I would actually say it’s Eindhoven because there's a lot of design arteries, a lot of friends of mine have their studios here. But in regard to big cities it would be New York. The next city I want to visit is Tokyo.
EJ: What’s your favourite Netflix show?
JJ: I like this new series from DAVID ATTENBOROUGH, Life In Colour. I'm a big Attenborough fan.
EJ: What's the worst advice you've ever received?
JJ: Not to start my company. It was the worst advice, but I didn’t take it.
EJ: How did you react to this?
JJ: I've always been a very stubborn person. Not that I don't listen to people, but it helps me to be more sure about what I think. If a lot of people say no, maybe there's a good reason to say yes. If you believe in something, you have to try it.
EJ: If there's only one song in the world you could listen to for the rest of your life, which one would it be?
JJ: Murder on the Dance Floor by SOPHIE ELLIS-BEXTOR. I’d always listen to it while working and old interns would still send this song to me when they would hear it on the radio.
EJ: First night out after lockdown: What are you going to wear?
JJ: Probably something very shiny, very bright and very energetic.
EJ: Pizza or Pasta?
JJ: Pasta. Gnocchi to be specific. Handmade Gnocchi.
EJ: What’s your favourite smell?
JJ: Estragon, I’m very sensitive to smell actually.
EJ: What do you order for the table in a restaurant?
JJ: A bottle of red wine.
EJ: What kind of music do you listen to while you're working on a new collection/during the design process?
JJ: Jazz when I have to concentrate and electronic music when I need some energy.
EJ: Blind date or double date?
JJ: Double date.
EJ: Biggest risk you’ve ever taken?
JJ: Living my whole life in the Netherlands and then starting over in Denmark.
EJ: A fact about you that surprises people?
JJ: People are shocked about my age sometimes, they think that I’m younger than I actually am.
EJ: What are your plans for 2021?
JJ: I’m expecting my first child this year, a little girl, so I want to finish the next collection before September when the baby is going to be there.